When I installed the sender back into the tank my OHMS dropped to zero - even though I could operate the arm up & down through the fill hole (tank is empty). The system worked when I had it in my hand and I THOUGHT the problem was solved. The brown wire running from the gauge pod to the back of the car is not broke. I could operate the sender's float arm outside of the tank and the gauge would read correctly. Got a good gauge from him and it all tested fine. Went through ALL KINDS of troubleshooting and determined that the gauge was bad Thought the sender was bad so I got one from Russ (Mine didn't even have a pick-up screen - his did) Had a gauge that would only read 1/2 when tank was full, 1/4 at 1/2 and E at E.
Russ is aware of my issues and has been VERY helpful but I think I've stumped even HIM. If the gauge even reads 1/8 low, with the resistors, the gauge is bad, or a bad wire. I believe I twill be a bad wire, or a bad gauge. Move your way up, until you have found the problem. Since your gas tank is already out, put the resistors in line at the feed line, where it hooks up to the gas tank sending unit. So, with that said, get your self a 5 pack 15 ohm 1/2 watt resistors from Radio Shack. I soldered the 2 15 ohm resistors together to create the 30 ohm. The packs that I picked up were 10 ohm and 15 ohm 1/2 watt. remember that it passed the shop manual tests. (I dont throw away anything) The gauge read low, like it had in the car. I have several gauges, so I have backed up the readings. I picked up several different types of resistors from radio Shack for some testing. The sending unit rheostat reads at 1.5 to 30 ohms. This is how I devise a test for the gauge.
I swapped a gauge, and it worked, and has worked for a while now. On my own car, this proved to be a false indicator of a good gauge, My gauge read about 1/4 tank low, at all times. Then ground the connector, and the gauge will spike to empty. This will cause the gauge to spike to past full. If your gas gauge doesn't work at all or reads low, the shop manual instructs to disconnect the feed wire at the back of the trunk wall, behind the filler door. Decided to come up with a way to test the gas gauge, beyond the shop manuals simple but flawed way.
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